All this is sitting on top of a 6" x 6" x 1/2" piece of mild steel plate. There are two small 1.5" x 1.25" x 1/4" pieces on the sides to keep the square "die" aligned properly (they should see little or no force). The front sections are 2" x 3" x 3/8" and 2" x 5" x 3/8". The back sides are the same 1" material cut to the right lengths and standing up. The square "die" that will slide up and down is 2" x2" x 1" mild steel. Make sure that your work is securely clamped in place before drilling with a hole saw into short pieces of any material wood or metal.Well, after finding unitized tooling to do vee notching on angle iron and discovering the price is typically $600-800 for a simple notcher, I started thinking about how I could make one. Hole saws can and will grab the workpiece. Make sure that all loosened set screws are re-tightened before powering on your drill press. Any larger and there is not much material left in the wood where the two holes intersect.Ĭaution: Doing either one of these can be dangerous. This will work for tubing up to about 1-1/4''. (sorry no pics, I hope that was a clear enough description) The first hole holds the work, the second guides the hole saw. Clamp your workpiece in between the two pieces and cut your notch. Leaving them clamped together, drill a second hole "through" both pieces that intersects with the first hole. Using a hole saw mounted in your drill press and sized to match the material to be notched - drill a hole through the joint and across the grain of the wood so that when you separate the two pieces they will have a 1/2 round cut in each of them.
Without the base in the way you are only limited by the height of your mounting location.Īn alternate "cheap" option would be to clamp two, 10 inch long, chunks of 2x4 together. Loosen the set screws that secure the head or the base, then you can swing the head out and away from the base. I've got an HF cheapy drill press, small one, whats the minimum capacity or clearance you need to use the HF cheapy-notcher in a drill press?If you want to use a small drill press with a notcher. Once it's set up any additional tubes will be identical to the first so measure twice and cut once. Set the tubing length between the outside diameter of the tubing and holesaw, in this case 23 inches, square up the jigs, clamp it all down and cut the second notch. This way I can establish the correct length AND notch orientation in one easy step. To do the second notch I bolted a short piece of the mating tubing to another angle plate and use this to nest the "first" notch into while cutting the second notch. Getting the LENGTH and the notch ORIENTATION correct is critical to having a usable part versus something to practice welding on. Just clamp the tube in the notcher and do the deed.Ĭutting the second notch is where some planning needs to be done. No orientation, no length to worry about. This is simple to set up and doesn't require a lot of thought.Ĭutting the first notch is the easy part. These pics show my Harbour Freight tubing notcher clamped to a 90* angle plate. I set all of this up on one of my jig tables but it will work on any bench or table top you have handy. These are crossmembers that will be going into a new front suspension cradle for my van project. This how I set up my jigs for notching tubing that has to be a certain length AND parallel orientation of the notches. I have done the chopsaw trick also, like hotfoot, but I find it difficult to maintain length AND notch orientation with that method. I have been using my cheapo HF notcher for a couple of years now with no problems.
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